START HERE... AND GO FROM THERE
“My whole life is escape. My whole life is this wave. I drop into em, set the whole thing up, pull up the bottom turn, pull up into it and shoot for my life, going for broke, man …and behind me all the shit goes over my back - the screaming parents, teachers, police, priests, politicians, knee boarders, windsurfers. They’re all going over the falls head –first into the fucking reef and I’m shooting for my life and when it starts to close out I pull out through the bottom or out the back…and I pick up another one and do the same goddamn thing !”
-miki dora.
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
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